Exploring Spain's medieval charm in Aragon

While Zaragoza is a surprisingly hip hive of activity with a charming untouched feel, impressive gastronomical options, great vintage shops and artists markets, the dusty desert region that surrounds it feels very much like a land lost in time. Travel not too far by car or bus and you’ll pass villages reminiscent of old pueblos, fields of farmland, rusted vintage trucks rattling down dust roads. It felt like we were on a tour of a movie set until an old woman would emerge from her curtained doorway to hang her laundry. And between each little town lay miles and miles of expansive landscape, most of it dry and dusty sienna, with a clear blue sky stretching out over it.

Zaragoza

(Add section for Zaragosa here - also add something about Mudejar architecture.)

Belchite

Left as a monument to the Spanish Civil War, the ruins of Belchite are said to look much like they did in 1937 when the small town found itself on the front lines of an ideological war. Wandering through the remnants of golden brick buildings pockmarked with bullet holes and mortar shells is truly a captivating experience. The only way to see the ruins is to take a guided tour but the groups are usually small, and it’s easy to hang back and take in the eerie emptiness of the ghost town at your own pace. It’s hard to believe a place as beautiful as this sun-drenched village could have such a dark and bloody past. (One which the audio guides described in great, gory detail.) It feels more like a forgotten place, slowly broken down gently by time, than one mangled by war.

After touring the ruins, we wandered through the new town of Belchite built alongside the ruins in the 1950s. The colorful facades and clean winding streets are a stark contrast to the faded and dusty exteriors of the old town, with a couple of clean, tree-lined parks and plenty of bars and cafes clustered around small but busy plazas where locals and Spanish tourists spill out onto the streets, soaking up the sun over beer and tapas.

Monasterio de Piedra

The Monastery dates back to 1194, and has a fascinating history spanning and surviving various conflicting religions, monarchies, and wars. After being abandoned in 1840 it was bought by a wealthy Catalan merchant who used the land to farm until his son, Juan Federico Muntadas, took it over. As a way to conserve the natural park and preserve the monastery, he began to build the hotel, spas, fish farms, and restaurants that remain today. Thankfully the businesses hasn’t tarnished the natural landscape, and he skilfully shaped the pathways through the park so as to protect its natural beauty and inhabitants.

Although it’s a dry mountainous region, this is a lush oasis thanks to the River Piedra, which flows through several waterfalls, along limestone cliffs and past dank, dripping caves. While we originally went for the grounds more than anything, the monastery was breathtaking, and we ended up wandering through twice - once before our hike, and once after. Their wine museum is also really interesting and highly recommended for anyone who finds ancient vines as interesting as I do.

While still considered off the beaten path for most, The Monastery and the surrounding grounds are a popular spot for Spanish tourists. In fact, it’s one of the most visited attractions in Aragon. So if you’re hoping to wander in peace, try visiting on a weekday or in the off-season.

Canfranc

If you’re journeying towards, near, or through the Pyrenees, Canfranc is well worth a visit - in fact we made the trip north especially for Canfranc’s historic station as well as the scenic train ride up (which was ridiculously beautiful). Opened in 1928, the former international train station has 365 windows, and platforms over 200 metres long - giving it a very Wes Anderson look and feel. In fact, it’s a wonder Anderson hasn’t yet focused one of his films on the fascinating history of the station once connecting France and Spain. (Although rumour has it it was once used for the filming of Doctor Zhivago.) During World War II Nazi gold and goods are said to have passed through the station as well as Jews and Allied soldiers escaping France.

Canfranc itself is a really sweet town that’s lovely to wander around, and there are plenty of nearby hiking trails that had us wishing we had come prepared with better footwear.